Dehydration and Heat Stroke

Handout from Kathy James on dehydration and heat stroke

The danger of dehydration and heat stroke:

Dehydration and heat stroke are two very common heat-related diseases that can be life-threatening if left untreated.

What is dehydration?

Dehydration can be a serious heat-related disease, as well as being a dangerous side-effect of diarrhea, vomiting and fever. Children and persons over the age of 60 are particularly susceptible to dehydration.

What causes dehydration?

Under normal conditions, we all lose body water daily through sweat, tears, urine and stool. In a healthy person, this water is replaced by drinking fluids and eating foods that contain water. When a person becomes so sick with fever, diarrhea, or vomiting or if an individual is overexposed to the sun, dehydration occurs. This is caused when the body loses water content and essential body salts such as sodium, potassium, calcium bicarbonate and phosphate.

Occasionally, dehydration can be caused by drugs, such as diuretics, which deplete body fluids and electrolytes. Whatever the cause, dehydration should be treated as soon as possible.

What are the symptoms of dehydration?

The following are the most common symptoms of dehydration, although each individual may experience symptoms differently. Symptoms may include:

• thirst
• less-frequent urination
• dry skin
• fatigue
• light-headedness
• dizziness
• confusion
• dry mouth and mucous membranes
• increased heart rate and breathing

In children, additional symptoms may include:

• dry mouth and tongue
• no tears when crying
• no wet diapers for more than 3 hours
• sunken abdomen, eyes or cheeks
• high fever
• listlessness
• irritability
• skin that does not flatten when pinched and released

Treatment for dehydration:

If caught early, dehydration can often be treated at home under a physician's guidance. In children, directions for giving food and fluids will differ according to the cause of the dehydration, so it is important to consult your pediatrician.

In cases of mild dehydration, simple rehydration is recommended by drinking fluids. Many sports drinks on the market effectively restore body fluids, electrolytes, and salt balance.

For moderate dehydration, intravenous fluids may be required, although if caught early enough, simple rehydration may be effective. Cases of serious dehydration should be treated as a medical emergency, and hospitalization, along with intravenous fluids, is necessary. Immediate action should be taken.

How can dehydration be prevented?

Take precautionary measures to avoid the harmful effects of dehydration, including:

• Drink plenty of fluids, especially when working or playing in the sun.
• Make sure you are taking in more fluid than you are losing.
• Try to schedule physical outdoor activities for the cooler parts of the day.
• Drink appropriate sports drinks to help maintain electrolyte balance.
• For infants and young children, solutions like Pedialyte will help maintain electrolyte     balance during illness or heat exposure. Do not try to make fluid and salt solutions at home for children.

What is heat stroke?

Heat stroke is the most severe form of heat illness and is a life-threatening emergency. It is the result of long, extreme exposure to the sun, in which a person does not sweat enough to lower body temperature. The elderly, infants, persons who work outdoors and those on certain types of medications are most susceptible to heat stroke. It is a condition that develops rapidly and requires immediate medical treatment.

What causes heat stroke?

Our bodies produce a tremendous amount of internal heat and we normally cool ourselves by sweating and radiating heat through the skin. However, in certain circumstances, such as extreme heat, high humidity or vigorous activity in the hot sun, this cooling system may begin to fail, allowing heat to build up to dangerous levels.

If a person becomes dehydrated and can not sweat enough to cool their body, their internal temperature may rise to dangerously high levels, causing heat stroke.

What are the symptoms of heat stroke?

The following are the most common symptoms of heat stroke, although each individual may experience symptoms differently. Symptoms may include:

• headache
• dizziness
• disorientation, agitation or confusion
• sluggishness or fatigue
• seizure
• hot, dry skin that is flushed but not sweaty
• a high body temperature
• loss of consciousness
• rapid heart beat
• hallucinations

How is heat stroke treated?

It is important for the person to be treated immediately as heat stroke can cause permanent damage or death. There are some immediate first aid measures you can take while waiting for help to arrive.

• Get the person indoors.
• Remove clothing and gently apply cool water to the skin followed by fanning to stimulate sweating.
• Apply ice packs to the groin and armpits.
• Have the person lie down in a cool area with their feet slightly elevated

Intravenous fluids are often necessary to compensate for fluid or electrolyte loss. Bed rest is generally advised and body temperature may fluctuate abnormally for weeks after heat stroke.

How can heat stroke be prevented?

There are precautions that can help protect you against the adverse effects of heat stroke. These include:

• Drink plenty of fluids during outdoor activities, especially on hot days. Water and sports drinks are the drinks of choice; avoid tea, coffee, soda and alcohol as these can lead to dehydration.
• Wear lightweight, tightly woven, loose-fitting clothing in light colors.
• Schedule vigorous activity and sports for cooler times of the day.
• Protect yourself from the sun by wearing a hat, sunglasses and using an umbrella.
• Increase time spent outdoors gradually to get your body used to the heat.
• During outdoor activities, take frequent drink breaks and mist yourself with a spray bottle to avoid becoming overheated.
• Try to spend as much time indoors as possible on very hot and humid days.
If you live in a hot climate and have a chronic condition, talk to your physician about extra precautions you can take to protect yourself against heat stroke.

Kathy James Water Presentation

This is the handout provided by Kathy James from her Sanitation/Water Presentation given in Richland in July 2010

The Ultimate “Gotta Have” Food

(Sorry…it’s not chocolate!)

In an emergency we can live for several weeks without food, but only a few days without clean water.

Water-related diseases are responsible for 80% of all illnesses and deaths in the developing world.

Obtaining good-tasting, contamination-free water is ordinarily not a problem. But in times of emergency, on out-door trips, or when traveling in under-developed areas, having access to a source of clean, drinkable water is a matter of first priority. The bacteria, viruses, and parasites in contaminated water can not only cause many kinds of health problems, but can, and do, cause death.

In a disaster situation water may be a scarce commodity for a few days, or even a few weeks. Municipal water systems have the potential for contamination, especially in floods and earthquakes. If possible… following a disaster, contact authorities in your area to determine if tap water is safe to drink.

If there has been a breach in the infrastructure you must consider ALL tap water to be unfit for bathing, brushing teeth, washing dishes or hands, cooking or drinking -- that's what the emergency water supply is for.

If in doubt… Keep it out. Don’t Drink the Water!

Following any type of major loss of infrastructure and support… Your #1 task is to shut the water off where it enters your property. Learn how to NOW and practice doing it.

How much do I store?

Most authorities suggest storing at least 1 gallon of clean water per person per day for 3 days. Only you can decide if that is enough for you and your family.

Half is for drinking; the other half is for cooking and sanitation.

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints used to recommend 1 gal. per day per person for 14 days. They no longer post any quantity recommendations, possibly due to laws in some countries prohibiting storing food and/or water.
If you are sick, nursing, pregnant, have kids or elderly people living with you… you will need more water.

Also… In hot or humid weather you may need more.

Use your emergency water supply anytime water will touch you or your food.

To conserve your emergency water supply, use disposable cups, plates and utensils. You may also clean your hands using waterless hand sanitizers and wet wipes to conserve water.

Do not ration drinking water. If you run short, drink what you need today and find more tomorrow. Don't risk dehydration. (See handout on dehydration and heat stroke.)

Do not use water from the tank above the back of your toilet. (See the handout on sanitation for instructions on what to use that water for.)

Don't forget pets. When storing clean water, you may want to store for pets just like people… a gallon a day each for Fido and Fluffy.

Storing Water

Keep emergency water in a cool, dark place in your home, each vehicle, and your workplace.

There are a variety of water storage containers available; some are spendy, some are free. They range from individual 4 oz. pre-packaged Mylar packs to containers that can hold a few hundred gallons.

Commercially bottled water in PETE (or PET) plastic containers and 4 oz. pre-filled Mylar packs can be purchased. Follow the container’s “best if used by” dates as a rotation guideline. Avoid plastic containers that are not PETE plastic. The 4 oz. packs usually have a 5 yr. shelf life. Most bottled waters won’t be quite that long.

If you choose to package water yourself, consider the following guidelines:

Containers

• Use only food-grade containers for drinking water. Smaller containers made of PETE plastic or heavier plastic buckets or drums work well. 2-litre soda bottles are great.
• Clean, sanitize, and thoroughly rinse all containers prior to use. A sanitizing solution can be prepared by adding 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of liquid household chlorine bleach (5 to 6% sodium hypo chlorite) to one quart (1 liter) of water. Only household bleach without thickeners, scents, or additives should be used.
• Do not use plastic milk jugs, because they do not seal well and tend to become either brittle or “saggy” over time.
• Do not use containers previously used to store non-food products for drinking water.
• Water that’s going to be designated for non-food/drinking purposes can be stored in just about any type off plastic container. You should still make sure that the container is clean and you might even still want to rotate it once in a while.
• Don’t store canning jars on the shelves empty… store them with water in them. Water bathing the water would be even better. They wouldn’t have to be rotated every year that way. Make sure the shelves are strong enough for the extra weight. Water weighs just a little over 8 lbs. per gallon.

Water Pretreatment

• Water from a chlorinated municipal water supply does not need further treatment when stored in clean, food-grade containers.
• Non-chlorinated water should be treated with bleach. Add 1/8 of a teaspoon (8 drops) of liquid household chlorine bleach (5 to 6% sodium hypo chlorite) for every gallon (4 liters) of water. Only household bleach without thickeners, scents, or additives should be used. OR better, yet…
• Use Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione. See information under Purifying Water below.
• Best of all… use Oxy-Stabile Water Preserver. This revolutionary product will allow you to store water for up to 5 years without rotation! One 2.36 oz bottle will stabilize 110 gallons (two 55 gallon barrels) of tap water for long term storage. http://www.nitro-pak.com/

Storage

• Containers should be emptied and refilled regularly.
• It is recommended to use a “white” hose instead of the garden hose to fill containers too large to fill at the sink. Thoroughly drain all water out of hose after each use.
• Store water only where potential leakage would not damage your home or apartment.
• Protect stored water from light and heat. Some containers may also require protection from freezing.
• The taste of stored water can be improved by pouring it back and forth between two containers before use.

NOTE: If storing liquid chlorine bleach for disinfecting water or for other sanitation purposes remember to check the date on the container. It usually will only have an, at full potency, shelf-life of 6-12 month, 24 months tops, according to the Clorox Company.

A better way to store “chlorine” is to store and use sodium dichloro-s-triasinetrione. It has a 15-25 year shelf life and takes up far less space. More on this under Purifying Water.

Purifying

The “A, B, C, D and R” of water contamination:

A esthetic – unpleasant taste and odors, cloudiness, silt, sediment, chlorine, chlorine by products…

B iological – harmful microscopic pathogens such as Cryptosporidium, Giardia and other cysts and spores.

C hemical – toxic chemicals: Trihalomethanes, PCB’s PCE’s, detergents, and pesticides

D issolved solids – including heavy metals such as aluminum, asbestos, cadmium, chromium 6, copper, lead, arsenic and mercury

R adiological – Radon 222

There are three ways to purify water…

Heat, Chemicals, or Filters

Heat:

Disease-causing organisms in water (and milk) are killed by exposure to heat in a process known as pasteurization. Boiling is often recommended to achieve pasteurization. However, contaminated water (and milk) can be pasteurized at temperatures well below boiling, saving time and valuable fuel resources. Water heated to 149° for a short period of time is free from microbes, including E.coli, Rota viruses, Giardia and the Hepatitis A virus. (At 160° milk and foods are pasteurized.)

The reusable WAPI (Water Pasteurization Indicator) is a simple, low cost device containing a temperature-sensitive wax that helps users determine when water has reached pasteurization temperatures.

http://www.solarcookers.org/catalog/waterpasteurizationindicatorwapi-p-42.html?osCsid=a06ca0ad56fdebce58b61999f199921c

Without a WAPI… bringing water to a boil is the most certain way of killing all microorganisms, because boiling is a visual indication that the water has exceeded the required temperature. (If the water pot is covered, it will shorten the time to reach a boil.)

To improve the taste of boiled water, add charcoal from a wood fire during boiling and filter out the charcoal before drinking. You may also add a pinch of salt to the water and aerate to make it taste better.

Chemicals:

 Liquid Chlorine Bleach: Any brand - 5.25% or 6% sodium hypochlorite (chlorine) (like Ultra Clorox) that contains NO soap, fragrance or phosphates. Do not use scented bleach.

Amount of water, Clear water, Cloudy water – (1st strain / filter)

2 quarts, 4 drops, 1/8 teaspoon
1 gallon, 1/8 teaspoon – 8-drops, 1/4 teaspoon
5 gallons, 1/2 teaspoon, 1 teaspoon


Let the water stand for 30 minutes. Test for Free Chlorine, a residual odor… The water should have a slight chlorine odor. If it does not, add the same amount of bleach again and let the water stand for 15 more minutes.

 Hydrogen Peroxide: Peroxide is a perfectly acceptable disinfectant for water, as it oxidizes, as does chlorine. Peroxide degrades even more rapidly than chlorine, however, and potency may be an issue if it is to be stored. The other thing that makes peroxide more difficult to use is that testing for peroxide residual levels is difficult compared to testing for chlorine residuals. Residuals must be measured to ensure disinfecting is complete.
 Iodine Methods: Iodine has been used to disinfect water since the early 1900’s. In order to destroy Giardia cysts, the drinking water must be at least 68° F, the water can be warmed in the sun before treating or hot water can be added. Iodine should be limited to a short-term disinfectant.
 Special NOTE…Regular Iodine Tablets ARE NOT EFFECTIVE against chriptosporidium.
 Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione: 99% and 1% inert ingredients powdered bleach may be purchased anywhere that sells supplies for pools and hot tub spas.

A 2 lb container of sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione will clean up to 160,000 gallons of water. That’s enough for your family with plenty left to share with extended family, friends and neighbors.

 Its advantages, only 1/4 teaspoon is used to treat a 55 gallon drum of water and the shelf life of a container of this concentrate is 15 to 25 years if kept dry and stored in a cool location.
 Two oz. treats 10,000 gallons
 Dissolves instantly with no residue
 Clears up water fast and keeps it clear

Instructions for use: Add ¼ teaspoon of the chlorinating concentrate to a 50 or 55 gallon drum. Place the cap on the container and seal it. Allow the water to sit for 24 hours. After 24 hours remove the lid and test for the presence of free chlorine in the water.

This can be done by smelling, or by using test strips for free chlorine, available at pool and spa stores. (The test strips cost about $10-$12 for 50 strips.) If the chlorine can be detected after 24 hours, then the water has been purified.

At this point, remove/loosen the lid from the water container and allow it to sit open for another 24 hours. The free chlorine will come out of the water, and the water is then fit for drinking.

If no chlorine is present after the first 24 hours with the container closed, repeat the process, as organic matter (bacteria, cysts, etc.) are still present. Until free chlorine can be detected after 24 hours, there are probably organisms still present.

One of the things that affects the taste of water is it "going flat". This occurs because of the oxidation that takes place as it sits. You can improve the taste by pouring the water back and forth between containers to aerate it.

Filtering

There’s a wide variety of methods and products available for filtering water. The most important thing to look for when either buying or making a water filter is what it can and cannot do.

Some filters do only that… FILTER. They do not purify the water. Be very careful!

If the desire is to both filter AND purify the water make sure that the filtering system will do BOTH… and make sure that it will kill ALL the harmful organisms in the water.

Read labels - Read instructions.

The Church in it's provident living site
http://www.providentliving.org/content/display/0,11666,8207-1-4531-1,00.html under the title of Water Purifying Guidelines the only two suggested links for commercial water filters are…
seychelle.com & katadyn.com.

The Distribution Center now carries the Seychelle 28-ounce water bottle with either one filter or two filters. Each filter will purify 100 gallons of water. The cost of the two-filter kit is currently (7/10) $22.00. That’s $22 for 200 gallons of purified water. Go to…

http://www.ldscatalog.com/ and type “water filtration” in the quick search box to view and order.

Also… Google “water filter straw”

For larger capacity, family sized, water filters, possibly the best on the market is the Berkey Water Filter. And.. they can be homemade since it’s the filter that is the important part, and they can purchased separately. (See both the handout on the efficiency of the filters and the handout on how to make your own.)

Google… “Berkey Water Filter” for commercially made filters, and “Black Berkey Purification Elements” for the filters.

A caution about ceramic water filters: If the ceramic filter is Dropped or Frozen it may be Damaged and Useless. Do Not allow your filter to freeze, or place hot water into the filter. Freezing and hot water will destroy your filter.
Filters strain out particles as water is drained or forced through the filter, and Purifiers chemically kill the particulates.

Other Considerations: Filters clog and need to be replaced. Another negative aspect of filters is that sometimes you can filter faster than the filtering element can clean. For filters that work by pumping a handle manually, impatient, forceful pumping can shove particles through the filter and into your drinking water.

There are a lot of instructions on the internet for building homemade water filters that might be even less expensive than building your own “Berkey” but none of them say what they will or will not kill or remove from the water. With the Berkey filters you can rest assured that you’re not putting your family at risk. Do your own due diligence... It’s your family.

For 72/96 hr. BOBs (bug-out-bags) throw in either some Chlor Floc (see the handout on Chlor Floc) or Katadyn Micropur MP 1 water purifier tablets, in case you forget to grab your Seychelle water bottle or filtered drinking straw. (Straw from seychelle.com) Remember… Regular iodine tablets will not kill chrytospridium. (And if the chrypto dosen’t kill you… the taste of the iodine just might)

Resources for Water

With a good supply of items to filter and purify water in your storage, besides storing water, there are other sources of water that might be available depending on the nature of the emergency, where you live, and the weather conditions.

Within your home there’s always the hot water heater. HOWEVER… After years of settling in older hot water tanks you might not be able to get the water out of the drain plug. It might be clogged up with sediments in which case you’ll have to siphon the water from the top. Check on it NOW. A really cool siphoning hose is available at…

http://beprepared.com/search.asp?t=ss&ss=siphon

In either case be sure to turn off the breaker to the hot water tank, even if the power is out, before draining/siphoning the water out. Just in case.

Outside of the home, here in the Tri-Cities, we have rivers, occasional rain, and very little snow. Having something available to collect rain water might be a good idea… again, just in case.  Remember to filter & purify before using.

Don’t drink water from a waterbed. However, it can be used for sanitation purposes. Also don’t drink the water in swimming pools or hot tubs due to the toxic chemicals used in them. Boiling it makes it worse by concentrating the chemicals. It can be used for sanitation purposes, however.

Learn how to “collect water” using an easy to make homemade solar water still. (See Water Still handout). Practice NOW.

Practice conserving water NOW…

Never throw water away from canned fruit or vegetables… use it to rehydrate freeze-dried fruits and vegetables, make oatmeal, pancake batter, cook rice or beans, or add to homemade soup or sauces.

Take a “bath” with a couple of wet wipes and a spray bottle. (Top to toes, then private parts, front to back.)

Dust hair with corn starch or talcum powder to stretch intervals between shampooing. (There are “dry shampoo” products available in Sporting Goods store.)

Spend a 3-day weekend with your family using only one gallon of water per-person-per-day. Wow, will you learn a lot! Could you go a whole week?

Remember…

I + E = K

Information + Experience = Knowledge

The #1 necessity to surviving a major disaster is an “I can do this” attitude.

Build that kind of attitude by practicing NOW.

Knowledge is gained by experimenting and practicing.

Practicing builds confidence.

Confidence provides for peace in the middle of chaos.

"When disaster strikes…the time to prepare…has passed!”

-

WAPI (Water Pasteurization Indicator)

Information about the WAPI taken from: http://solarcooking.wikia.com/wiki/WAPI
Please go to their site for complete information.

A Water Pasteurization Indicator (WAPI) is a simple thermometer that indicates when water has reached pasteurization temperature and is safe to drink. It was invented by Fred Barrett and Dale Andreatta.

Photo shows a water pasteurization indicator ready to place in a pot of water (left) and after registering water pasteurization temperature (right.) 

Pasteurization destroys all microorganisms that cause diseases from drinking contaminated water and milk. A small polycarbonate tube contains a wax that melts when water or milk is heated enough to be pasteurized (65˚C/149˚F). This saves much fuel by eliminating the need to boil water or milk to ensure that the pasteurization temperature has been reached. See also Instructions for building WAPIs.

Since water pasteurizes at temperatures well below the boiling point of water, WAPIs save time when solar pasteurizing, and save fuel when using traditional fuels.

WAPI kits may be purchased so you can make your own or premade WAPI can be purchases for $6.00 at: http://www.solarcookers.org/catalog/waterpasteurizationindicatorwapi-p-42.html?osCsid=a06ca0ad56fdebce58b61999f199921c
or for  $8.00 each from http://www.sunoven.com/cart/index.php?main_page=products_all

Home Made Berkey Water Filter

Berkey filters are gravity filters that use cleanable micro-permeable ceramic filter elements. DO NOT allow the filter to FREEZE – once frozen the filter is CRACKED and will not filter. DO NOT DROP the filter, when dropped the filter may be broken and will not filter properly. These filters are extremely effective, long-lasting and require no electricity. This article will guide you through the construction of a filter equivalent in performance to the Imperial Berkey that sells for about $250-350. Our total cost was $125.

Gather the necessary components:

• Two 5-gallon food grade buckets ($6 - Macey’s)

• Two lids for the buckets (we used Gamma lids $6, they spin on/off for cleaning & filling – Macey’s)

• A pair of Black Berkey filter elements ($80 Alert Store)

• A food grade spigot (~ $12 Alert Store)

We only used ONE (1) filter in the Center of the Pail / Lid

Process to help preserve the Berkey filter

1. Pre-filter water through a Painter’s Strainer – 5 microns - $3 Home Depot / Lowes
2. Pre-filter water through a Water Sox – 1 micron - $10 Utah Civil Defense - info@tacda.org  (The American Civil Defense Association – TACDA) 800.425.5397
3. Last of all filter through the Berkey filters – 99.99% pure water
Prices as of October 2008

Drill two 1/2" holes in the bottom of the upper bucket and two matching holes in the lid of the lower bucket. Place the lid on the bottom of a bucket and drill both holes through the lid and pail simultaneously.

 

Drill a 3/4" hole in the side of the lower bucket toward the bottom. Make sure that the hole is up just far enough for the spigot to clear when the filter is sitting on a flat surface

Assemble the lower bucket by installing the spigot and the lid with holes.

Install the filter elements in the upper bucket through the holes in the bottom.









Assemble the filter by placing the upper bucket on the lower. Be sure to line up the holes so the tubes extend through the lid of the lower bucket. Place the remaining lid on top.


Purchase filters and spigots at:

The ALERT Store Phone: (903) 636-9232 / (903) 636-9384
One Academy Blvd. Big Sandy, TX 75755 http://www.thealertstore.com/
To use the filter, fill the upper bucket with water and wait. This process can be sped up by frequently topping off the water in the upper bucket. This maintains maximum pressure on the elements.

The specifications of the Black Berkey elements can be found here: http://berkeywater.com/BerkeyLight/BB_Purification_Elements.html


• The flow rate can also be increased by adding more filter elements.
• The filtered solids remain on the outside of the filter elements and will eventually interfere with the rate of flow. Therefore, it is important to pre-filter if your source water is cloudy. The elements can be scrubbed clean with a plastic scouring pad. The Black Berkey elements last for about 3000 gallons each (6000 gallons for the pair). By pre-filtering the filter will last longer.
• Used at a rate of 2 gallons of water per person per day for an average family of 4 people. The filters should last 2 years (2 gallons X 4 people = 8 gallons per day x 365 days = 2920 gallons per year.)

Joanne and Michael Barr



Black Berkey Purification Element (Water Filter)

This is a fact sheet for the water filteration system called the Black Berkey Purification Element. This information presented by Kathy James in her July 2010 Water/Sanitation Presentation.

They’re new and they are more powerful than any gravity filter element on the market. In fact, we tested the Black Berkey™ purification element with more than 10,000 times the concentration of pathogens per liter than is required by standard test protocol. This concentration of pathogens is so great that the post filtered water should be expected to contain 100,000 or more pathogens per liter (99.99% reduction - the requirement for pathogenic removal). Incredibly the Black Berkey™ removed 100%, with absolutely no pathogens detectable, setting a new standard in water purification.

The powerful Black Berkey™ replacement elements also remove or reduce pathogenic cysts, parasites, harmful or unwanted chemicals such as herbicides and pesticides, VOC’s, SOC’s detergents, organic solvents, trihalomethanes, cloudiness, silt, sediment, nitrates, nitrites, heavy metals, foul tastes and odors. Yet they leave in the healthful and beneficial minerals that your body needs and… Most existing gravity filtration systems can be retrofitted with Black Berkey™ elements, which upgrades them to gravity purifiers.

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs):
Removed to below detectable limits

Alachlor
Atrazine
Benzene
Carbofuran
Carbon Tetrachoride
Chlorine
Chlorobenzene
Chloroform
2,4-D
dbcp
p-Dichlorobenzene
o-Dichlorobenzene
1, 1-Dichloroethane
1, 2-Dichlorpethane
1, 1-Dichloroethylene
Cis-1, 2-Dichloroethyiene
Trans-1,2-Dichloroethylene
1, 2-Dichloropropane
cis-l,3-Dichloropropylene
Dinoseb
Endrin
Ethylbenzene Ethylene Dibromide (EDB)
Heptachlor
Heptachlor Epoxide
Hexachlorobutodlene
Hexachloro-cyclopentadlene
Lindane
Methoxychlor
MTBE
Pentachlorophenol
Simazine
Styrene
1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane
Tetrachloroethylene
Toluene
2,4,5-TP (Silvex)
1,2,4-trichlorobenzene
1,1,1-trichloroethane
1,1,2-trichloroethane
Trichloroethylene
o-Xylene
m-Xylene
p-Xylene


PATHOGENIC BACTERIA, CYSTS & PARASITES:
Removal to non-detectable levels

E. Coli-Klebsiella-Pseudomonas
Aeriginousis-Giardia-Cryptosporidium

TRIHALOMETHANES:
Removed to below detectable limits

Health effects: muscle and nervous system disorders, cancer, Bromodichloromethane-Bromoform-Chloroform-Dibromochloromethane INORGANIC


MINERALS:
Removed to below detectable limits

Contaminant Health Effects

Chlorine - Residual Cancer, birth defects
Greater than 95% reduction
Lead - kidney, nervous system damage
Mercury - kidney, nervous system disorders
Aluminum - respiratory, nervous system disorders
Cadmium - kidney damage
Chromium - liver, kidney, circulatory system disorders
Copper - gastro-enteric diseases

Chor-Floc Water Purification Facts

This is a fact sheet  about the chemical Chor-Floc which is used to purify water. This information was compiled by Kathy James for her July 2010 Sanitation Presentation

Currently used by the US Military, 30 tablets per box, eliminates Giardia, bacteria, viruses, removes sediment. Each 600-milligram tablet provides 1.4% available chlorine, and enough flocculating agent for the clarification and disinfection of 1 L (1.10 qts) of water from polluted sources at temperatures of 77 degrees F (25 degrees C). At 41 degrees F (5 C) two 600-milligram tablets will provide 2.8% available chlorine for the same purpose. Intended for the clarification and disinfect ion of polluted/suspended water, to make it bacteriologic ally safe for drinking. Recommended for use during US military exercises. Can also be used for the general public where municipally treated water is not available or where available water is suspected of being polluted. Chlor-Floc contains a combination of flocculation and coagulation agents, which promote rapid formation of sediment in treated water (sediment is easily removed by straining the water through a cloth). After clarification of the water the chlorine released by the active ingredients is then free to kill Giardia Lamblia cysts, bacteria, viruses, and other harmful microorganisms, which are not removed with the sediment. 30 tablets (treats 8 Gallons). Net Wt. 18 g.

This is the same product used by the U.S. Dept. of Defense and the International Red Cross.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What makes Chlor-Floc® technology different?
A: Chlor-Floc® is the only water purification chemical in the world that is able to remove turbidity AND sanitize naturally polluted raw water in one step, without the need for any specialized equipment. Other systems typically involve the use of either sanitizers alone or require complicated equipment or treatment sequences that are not suitable for targeted users.

Q: Why is it so important to remove turbidity?
A: Turbidity provides a protective "screen" around pathogens, which makes sanitizers less effective. Removing this turbidity is therefore fundamental to rendering raw water completely safe for human consumption. To illustrate, it has only recently been "discovered" that one of the primary causes of the ongoing failure to eradicate outbreaks of cholera in the underdeveloped communities is the ability of this disease to lie dormant within zooplankton and then to replicate and spread rapidly once external condition are favorable. As a result of these finding, flocculation/filtration has finally been accepted a vital step in the fight against cholera.

Q: Are there any other benefits from flocculation?
A: Yes. Flocculation is critical to addressing the all-important issue of Adoption rate by users or user communities. By combing the processes of flocculation and chlorination, WaterMaker'stm unique dual action effectively boosts the sanitizer component, meaning that less chlorine is required to render the water safe. The result is treated water that is far superior in both taste and visual appearance to that delivered by other chemical methods.

Q: Has Chlor-Floc® been successfully applied in true field conditions?
A: Yes. After proving itself in the field during flood disasters in Africa, South America and Southeast Asia, as well as several refugee crises (such as during the 2nd Gulf War), Chlor-Floc® has become the preferred technology of international aid and donor agencies such as UNICEF, the ICRC, the IFRC, OXFAM and others. The product has also been adopted, in tablet form, by several military institutions worldwide - including the US Department of Defense.

Q: Is any special equipment necessary when using Chlor-Floc®?
 A: None. All that is needed is a container (1-20 liters) and a stick for stirring when treating larger quantities of water (hand stirring is also effective).

Q: Is Chlor-Floc® easily and rapidly available?
 A: Yes. Because Chlor-Floc® cargo is dense as well as non-hazardous, it can be air freighted in large quantities to any destination at very short notice. This characteristic has been very valuable in assisting flood victims that have been cut off from ground-based supply lines.

Chlor-Floc® - The #1 solution for emergency water purification when disaster strikes.


Chlor-Floc® removes sediment and disinfects any contaminated water within minutes, irrespective of pH, turbidity or level of contamination – leaving it as clear and as clean as bottled water. Chlor-Floc® technology has been tested internationally at the highest level. This includes, amongst others, the United States Defense Force Laboratories at Natick, in Boston, the London School of Tropical Diseases, the South African Council for Scientific and Industrial Research and the Institute for Diseases in a Tropical Environment in Durban, South Africa. Chlor-Floc® tablets are registered with the United States Environmental Protection Agency and are currently the only water purification tablets which have fulfilled the requirements of the 1986 E.P.A. protocol on field-water purification.

Authoritative studies have shown that the taste and appearance of treated water is just as important as the efficacy of the purifying agent, for the simple reason that consumers hesitate to accept water, which is not aesthetically pleasing. It is an accepted fact that iodine and chlorine tablets, flocculating agents and household bleach do not render all types of natural water totally safe or sufficiently potable to the user. Any realistic solution must produce water that is sufficiently potable as to ensure adoption by end users. In its most basic form, the use of Chlor-Floc® powder requires a container, a stick for stirring and a cloth through which to strain the treated water.

In 1989, after almost 10 years of the most stringent testing and thorough research, tablets (known as “Chlor Floc”) were awarded a United States Defense Force contract. Besides its unmatched efficacy, the clarity and palatability of treated water was considered to be significantly superior to any other products tested.

If you don't remove the dirt - you cannot remove the CHOLERA.

Recent research has revealed new strategies in the ongoing fight to eradicate cholera in underdeveloped communities. According to Dr. Rita Colwell, Director of the National Science Foundation in Washington, D.C., the resistance of cholera to traditional methods to prevent outbreaks results from the ability of the bacteria to hide within zooplankton and spread when conditions are favorable. However, the process of flocculation and filtration has now been identified as vital...WaterMakertm technology has been combating this very issue for over 10 years!

Adding Chlor-Floc

Chlor-Floc is a substance that makes muddy water clean and safe to drink. It can be bought from a chemist and is available as a powder or as tablets.

Step 1: To use Chlor-Floc mix one teaspoon of powder with 20 litres of water and stir for a few minutes, or follow the instructions on the pack carefully.

Step 2: The dirt will soon settle to the bottom of the container. The clean water should be filtered through a cloth. The dirt will be left on the cloth.

Step 3: Be sure to keep the clean water covered.

Kathy James - Building A Solar Water Still

The Solar Still functions under the general principle of the "greenhouse effect." Solar energy heats the ground by passing through a clear plastic barrier. Moisture from the soil then evaporates, rises and condenses on the underside of the plastic barrier above.

Materials

There are only 2 essential components to constructing the Solar Still -- a small container to catch the water and a 6 x 6-foot sheet of clear plastic.

The sheet of clear plastic can be a thin painting drop cloth as long as there are no tears or holes.

A 6-foot length of flexible plastic tubing, similar to the kind used in fish tanks is a non-essential but desirable addition to the still components. This will allow you to drink accumulated water without needing to break down the solar still, inevitably affecting its efficiency.

Construction

The best part of this life-saving device is that for something that collects water from seemingly nothing, the solar still is amazingly simple to build. Here's how:

1. Dig a pit approximately 4 feet wide and 3 feet deep.
2. In the center of the pit, dig another small hole deep enough for the small water container.
3. Place the container inside, then run the tubing from the container to the outside of the pit. If there is tape available, tape the tubing to the inside of the container.
4. Blanket the pit with the plastic sheet, evenly on all sides, but not touching the bottom of the pit. Anchor the corners with boards, bricks or rocks.
5. Find a small rounded rock to place in the center of the sheet, over the water container. This will keep the plastic centered and control any flapping from the wind. Gently push down on the center weight until the sides slope to a 45º angle. If the pit is dug deep enough, this should leave the center weight just a few inches above the water container.
6. Next, secure the edges of the plastic sheet with boards, bricks, or rocks and dirt. Make sure there are no places where moisture can escape.
7. Close the tubing end with a knot, or double it back and tie it closed with a twist-tie.

Within 2 hours, the air inside the still will become saturated with moisture and begin to condense onto the underside of the plastic sheeting. Because of the angle of the plastic, water will run down towards the center. Finally, drops will gather and fall from the apex down into the water container. As the container fills, simply sip fresh, sterile water from the plastic tubing. In especially dry conditions, water output can be increased by placing succulent plant material inside the still.

The Solar Still only takes about an hour to build. If constructed correctly, it can yield about a quart of water a day.

Another method of collecting water is to wrap a larger clear plastic bag onto the end of a leafy tree branch and tie the end shut around the branch. The leaves will aid in the condensing process.
-

Kathy James Sanitation Seminar

Many thanks to Kathy James of Richland for the time and energy she spends to present these seminars and for her willingness to share her information and allowing us to post it here!

The Hidden Disaster

A Very Critical and Significantly Overlooked Topic

The leading cause of death in the world is dysentery (uncontrolled diarrhea) from polluted water and unsanitary conditions. An estimated 2.2 million children die every year from the result of poor sanitation conditions.

Human fecal matter contains millions of harmful organisms and can carry at least 50 communicable diseases. When left in the open and untreated, it can cause deadly diseases.

When the sewer system is disrupted, think “downstream” … “Where am I in the line?”

WHAT TO DO…

A composting toilet is the best possible option; a self-contained system that will not be disrupted and will keep functioning normally when power, water and sewer are gone. However… they are usually fairly expensive. If you have the funds to get one, practice using it NOW.

An existing wet flush system can be converted to a dry disposal system (much better than a port-a-potty or bucket with a toilet seat.)

How to make a “Dry Toilet”

• Turn off water at toilet.
• Use water in toilet tank to wash and sanitize the toilet thoroughly.
• Dry both the tank and bowl.
• Plug the hole in the bottom or the toilet bowl with a greased, solid rubber ball, a greased, tight wad of recycled plastic grocery bags, or dirt (if that’s all you have). This will prevent sewer gases, insects and rodents from coming up the drain into your house. (Do not use a Nerf ball.)
• Line the toilet bowl with a heavy-duty plastic bag that is going to remain in the toilet bowl. You may want to tape the top of the bag to the outside of the toilet bowl.
• Add another bag. Preferably a 100% compost-able/biodegradable bag. Available from…

http://emergencyportabletoilets.com/ or…

http://store.chemisan.com/

• Unless using ChemiSan… (more about this amazing bio tech invention below) separate liquid from solid. Use the toilet bowl only for solids. Do not use the toilet bowl for urine. Urinate into a separate container. (Urine is actually an excellent fertilizer when mixed 50/50 with water. Put it on the soil, but not onto areas where root crops are currently growing. And only when sufficient water is available.)
• Keep a bucket filled with sawdust, wood chips, kitty litter, dry dirt, etc. next to the toilet with a soup can and a paint stirring stick, ruler, dowel,or stick. After using the toilet, cover contents with sawdust, etc. Use the stick to press down the “pile” to extend the use of the plastic bag.
• Cover bowl by placing a piece of cardboard between the bowl lip and the seat. Close lid after each use. Place heavy object on lid to keep curious young hands out.
• When bag is full, place it in something sturdy, like a cardboard box, pan or pail to carry it outside. Leave the “liner” bag in the toilet.
• Dig a deep hole (3-4 ft.). Do not drop closed plastic bags into the hole unless it is a biodegradable/ compostable bag.
• Dump contents of bag into the hole and throw the bag on top. (Not necessary when using a biodegradable-compostable bag). Cover with about 2” of dirt (Do not use lime at this point. Lime pickles waste and keeps it from decomposing, even though it masks odors.) The waste needs to come in contact with the earth to assist the decomposing process. If you absolutely can’t bring yourself to dump the contents of the bag out, use a sharpened stick to poke several holes completely thru the bag.
• Between each bag-dump, put a board over hole and anchor with bricks to keep animals out and humans from falling in.
• When hole is filled to within 6 to 8 inches of the top, cover with about 2” of soil. Cover that soil with a layer of newspaper, then about 1” of Lime. Place another layer of newspaper on top of the lime and mound the remaining earth over the top of the hole. (The lime is to discourage dogs from digging up the waste.)
• The earth was design to process animal waste (which includes humans, on this issue). It just needs to be done correctly.

For winter considerations…

• Insulate ground with bags of leaves or straw so you can keep ground from freezing and dig holes.
• Put bags of waste into metal trash cans or open the head of a 55 gal drum. Securely tie or clamp down lid.
• Keep container on north side of house where sun won’t warm it. Once ground thaws, dig hole and follow the directions above.
• Toilet paper – can use phone books, newspapers or cloth when you run out of the real stuff. To conserve on stored toilet paper, save your old sheets, shirts, etc. and cut into squares to make re-usable “toilet paper.” Use a small amount of stored toilet paper for initial. wipe, then finish cleaning up with a damp piece of cloth “toilet paper.” Wash and sanitize for re-use.

ChemiSan and Compostable Bags

ChemiSan is an amazing biotech innovation. It…

• Accelerates the natural deodorization and decomposition of human waste.
• Turns human waste into an environmentally-friendly humus.
• Kills dangerous pathogens in human waste.
• Works great with biodegradable waste bags and waterless toilets.
• No need to separate fecal matter and urine. The urine activates and feeds the good bacterial micro- organisms.

 Available at…

http://emergencyportabletoilets.com/  or…

http://store.chemisan.com/

Another waste management product is called Enzyme 300

http://beprepared.com/product.asp?pn=ZK%20X100

It is a little less expensive and will break down the fecal matter but is not designed to kill the deadly pathogens. It will need to be buried at least 200’ from known water sources such as wells, rivers and lakes.

You may want to down load the free 2nd edition of The Humanure Handbook available at…

http://humanurehandbook.com/downloads/Humanure_Handbook_all.pdf

Protecting Your Home Environment

• Have on hand non-porous rubber balls of different sizes. Think “downstream.”
• Basement floor drains – remove grate and put a solid rubber ball in the pipe. (There are also commercial products available that swell to fit the hole.) This will prevent basement sewer from backing up into your house. Loosen the floor drain cover screws NOW so you know you can get them out when needed in an emergency.
• Basement bathtub – jam a small rubber ball into the drain.
• Basement toilet – pull toilet off the floor and plug hole.
• Plug EVERY basement drain!
• The best solution is to install a “Backwater valve” This is a one way check valve that will automatically stop the sewage from backing up into the house, and works especially well for sudden flooding backups.
• If all else fails, locate the “cleanout” near the house in your yard. Learn how to plug the line. This will stop the sewage from backing up into your house. Again, think of where you are in the line.

PERSONAL HYGIENE

• Personal wipes (shower in a box) for short periods of emergency. Store bought brands aren’t packaged for long-term storage. Vacuum sealing them will lengthen their shelf life. (“Kozy Kids” by Amway store well. Jim Phillips, a preparedness instructor, has used and stored them for years.)
• Waterless hand cleaners/sanitizers. Conserves water use. Read the labels! Don’t use products with isopropyl alcohol which is absorbed by the body and is toxic. You want the active ingredient to be ethyl (grain) alcohol.
• Cornstarch “Shampoo”… You can dust hair with corn starch or talcum powder to stretch intervals between shampoo-ing if there’s a shortage of water. (There are “dry shampoo” products available in Sporting Goods store.)
• Bar soap spreads disease. Do not share your bar of soap! Better to use liquid soap in a pump bottle.
• Wash water – Fill up empty detergent bottles with water and store for future washing.
• Plan on storing 1 gallon of water per person, per day. Half for drinking – half for sanitation
• Washing machine – use a 5-gallon bucket with a lid that has a hole drilled in it for a plunger handle to stick through. Use a “Breathing Mobile Washer” plunger to agitate clothes. Available at…

http://beprepared.com/product.asp?pn=MC%20W050

or the Rapid Washer available at…

http://www.lehmans.com/store/Home_Goods___Laundry___Washing___Rapid_Laundry_Washer___66RW?Args=

• I also have the new “Wonder Washer”, but I don’t recommend it for potentially long-term use. It’s too flimsy. Better to use the “plunger” type washers above.

• You can also make your own “plunger” washer by cutting 3 holes into a regular old plunger. See at…

http://offgridonthecheap.blogspot.com/2010/04/redneck-washing-machine-and-diy-laundry.html

• Feminine hygiene – “Glad rags” reusable, washable sanitary pads. “Keeper Moon Cup” reusable, washable “tampon,” and “Diva Cup.” Google for additional products available. Also… using panty liners on a regular basis will lengthen the time in between washing under ware, if necessary, and washing time.
• Both disposable diapers and cloth diapers.
• Dental care. Toothpaste is not essential. A toothbrush is good to have, but dental floss is the most important.

PERSONAL PROTECTION

• Buy vinyl or latex disposable gloves by the box. Have LOTS on hand.
• Masks…
• N95 – This is the minimum rating on a mask that you want to get – they filter particulates & droplets from others who sneeze or cough. Don’t get unrated comfort dust masks. The most comfortable ones have exhale valve & won’t fog glasses.
• N100 gives better protection. Best to get with exhale valve.
• Painters’ masks and P95 masks have carbon which absorbs odors for those who are sensitive to smells. Exhale valves are a good feature.
• “Triosyn” masks are impregnated with iodine to kill pathogens and provide the best bacteria and virus protection.
• Google “face masks” for more info.

CONTROLLING VERMIN AND PESTS

• Mice and rats spread disease. Have traps and bait. Cats control by killing them.
• A variety of items for insect control, especially flies.
• Fossil Shell Flour (DE -- diatomaceous earth). Use food grade DE – (Perma-Guard brand). Put around cabinets, etc. for insect control. Dust in your garden and mix in with stored grains, seeds & legumes. Cleans out intestinal parasites in animals.

CLEANERS AND SANITIZERS

• Calcium hypochlorite (dry bleach) is better than liquid bleach which has only a 1 year shelf life. Calcium hypochlorite will store for years when kept cool and dry.
• Safety tip: Do not store chlorine and ammonia products close together. Never mix chlorine bleach and ammonia as this will produce very deadly chlorine gas.
• GSE (grapefruit seed extract) or “citricidal”. 15-20 drops in 1 quart of water. You can wash countertops, vegetables, meats, etc. with it. Safe for food contact surfaces. Can even wash food with it.
• Iodine tincture – available at drugstores.
• Some pathogens require a base disinfectant. Some require a acidic disinfectant.
• Hydrogen peroxide (base) Very useful. Store in cool dark place.
• "Steramine" Tablet form of hydrogen peroxide. 1 tablet to one gallon of water. Available at restaurant supply stores.
• White vinegar (acid)
• Ammonia, alcohol (Ethyl NOT Isopropal), baking soda – all simple, not toxic and all very useful.

KEEPING THINGS SANITARY

• Have lots of empty spray bottles.
• Portable wash pails and pans – galvanized or stainless are better than plastic.
• Paper plates, cups, and utensils – disposable for short-term use. Saves water.
• Metal plates, bowls, cups and utensils are best for long-term use.
• Keep plastic grocery sacks. They will come in handy for all kinds of things. Store them compacted in a cardboard box. Tape the box shut and cut a three inch hole in one corner, and just stuff through the hole to store them.
• Coolers for storing food to keep vermin out.
• Large role of clear sheeting plastic and duct tape for sealing up windows and/or rooms, if necessary. Available at Home Depot or Lowes.
• Metal file cabinets/cupboards (definitely optional, but mice can’t get in them).

DISPOSAL OF TRASH AND GARBAGE

• Compost whatever possible.
• Several large trash cans with lids that can be secured.
• Lots of large, heavy-duty garbage bags. Trash compactor bags and contractor bags (available at ACE and other hardware stores) are the thickest.
• It may become necessary to bury garbage in more severe disaster conditions. Bury deep.
• Wash and reuse containers, IF water is available.
• Save paper to burn in winter.
• Disposable Diapers… You want the contents to make contact with the soil to speed decomposition. Remove fecal matter for burying, if possible, before rolling into a ball to discard.

As Always…
Remember…

I + E = K

Information + Experience = Knowledge

The #1 necessity to surviving a major disaster is an “I can do this” attitude.

“If ye are prepared… ye shall not fear.”

(D&C 38:30)

I would be sorely remiss if I didn’t include an Enormously Special THANK YOU to Jim Phillips. Mr. Phillips is a seasoned and highly knowledgeable preparedness instructor, and was kind enough to hold two consecutive classes in one evening (running from 6:30-11 pm) that I attended in Orem. He did that solely for our benefit to help me be more knowledgeable for the sanitation portion of our class. Most of the above notes are the result of his class.

If you have questions on this or other topics you can direct them to Jim Phillips at
CustomerService@SafeHarborAliance.com

To all of those who have been attending our classes… Thank you for your kind expressions of gratitude. Thank you for helping see the need to learn more than I knew. I hope that you have all gained something of value to help you be better prepared, better knowledgeable, and more confident in your ability to taken care of those you love in the event of a “disaster.” I certainly have!

Freezing Tips

Following are some tips for freezing and preserving food that Jenny Tevlin shared with us yesterday evening at Homemaking. Thanks Jenny!

What You Should Know About Freezing Food

The Olympia, February 11, 1998

What do cold weather and frozen food have in common? Actually, more than you might imagine.

Freezing has been used as a preservation method since prehistoric times. Until frozen storage cabinets were invented in the late 1880’s, people used naturally occurring ice and snow to keep foods cold. In fact, Sir Francis Bacon contracted fatal pneumonia after attempting to freeze chickens by stuffing their cavities with snow.

Clarence Birdseye introduced frozen food to America in the 1930’s making all kinds of food available to us year round. The winter season is also the time when many of us begin to use frozen food that was preserved from our summer gardens or family fishing trips.

Question: How long can I keep food in the freezer?
Answer: If foods are prepared for freezing appropriately and kept in a freezer at 0 degrees F or below, they can be held for 3 to 12 months.

Fruits can retain good quality for 12 months, vegetables for 8 to 12 months, beef 8 to 12 months, and poultry 6 to 12 months. Generally speaking, sliced foods, cured foods such as ham and bacon, and foods containing larger amounts of fat lose quality more rapidly during frozen storage.

Here are some other examples of other recommended storage times:

Lean Fish: Cod & Flounder, 6 months
Fatty Fish: Salmon & Swordfish, 3 months
Shellfish : 3-4 months
Whole, beaten Eggs: 12 + months
Cakes and Cookies: 4–6 months
Ham: 4-7 months
Bacon: 3 months

There are several good ways of making certain that you use frozen food in a timely manner. All frozen food prepared at home should be labeled with the amount of food and pack date. In our home, we keep a frozen food log near the freezer so we can keep track of what goes in and what comes out. It makes quick family dinners much easier.

Question: I have several foods in the freezer that have been frozen longer than recommended. What should I do with the food?
Answer: It’s safe to eat, but the quality may not be acceptable to you and your family.

Delicate fruit and vegetables can have tissue damage as ice crystals form during the freezing process. Also, foods that contain higher amounts of fat can become rancid during storage.

Finally, many foods are susceptible to freezer burn when foods are poorly wrapped or stored for long periods of time.

B. Susie Craig
Area Faculty
Washington State University Cooperative Extension




Freezing Foods
Val Hillers, Ph.D. , Extension Food Specialist
9/13/2001

Freezing stops the growth of spoilage organisms but may not kill them. Once frozen foods thaw, surviving organisms will grow even more rapidly than on fresh food.

Foods to be frozen must be packaged in a way that protects them from the dry climate in the freezer. Select packaging materials that are designed for freezer storage.

The quality of frozen fruits and vegetables is greatly improved by a fast freezing rate. The size and temperature of the freezer and the amount of food placed in the freezer in a single day determines how fast the food will be frozen.

Frozen fruits may be packed in syrup, in dry sugar, or left unsweetened. The type of pack used will depend on the intended use of the fruit. Most frozen fruits have better texture and flavor if packed in sugar or syrup. In all packs except dry unsweetened, liquid should completely cover the fruit to prevent deterioration of top pieces.

Sugar substitutes can be used for people on special diets. Artificial sweeteners give a sweet flavor but do not furnish the beneficial effects of sugar, like color protection and holding shape. Fruits preserved with artificial sweeteners will freeze harder and thaw more slowly than those preserved with sugar. Some artificial sweeteners lose their sweetness or become bitter over time in frozen foods. Such sweeteners should be added just before serving thawed fruits.

Preventing Discoloration: Some fruits, such as peaches, apples, pears, and apricots, darken quickly when exposed to air and during freezing. They may also lose flavor when thawed. The cut surface of the fruit contains enzymes, which, when exposed to air, cause browning. Listed below are several ways to prevent darkening of fruit. It is also imperative to prepare only small quantities of fruit at a time if freezing a fruit that darkens rapidly.

Ascorbic acid (vitamin C): Effective in preventing discoloration in most fruits. It adds nutritive value as well. Ascorbic acid in table, crystalline, and powdered form is available at many drugstores or where freezing supplies are sold. Tablets should be crushed so they will dissolve more easily. A solution suitable for submerging fruit can be made by adding 3 grams (six 500 mg vitamin C tablets) per gallon of water. Soak fruit in this solution for two minutes to prevent discoloration.

Ascorbic acid mixtures: Special anti-darkening preparations made of ascorbic acid mixed with sugar or with sugar and citric acid are on the market. Follow the directions on the package.

Blanching: With the exception of green peppers and onions, vegetables maintain better quality during freezer storage if they are blanched (heated enough to destroy enzymes) before freezing. Vegetables are blanched to slow or stop the action of enzymes that can cause loss of flavor, color, texture, and nutrients. Blanching also softens vegetables and makes them easier to package. As soon as blanching is complete, vegetables should be cooled quickly in ice water.

Storage Time: To maximize the length of time that frozen foods will maintain good quality, use packaging designed for freezer storage and wrap foods carefully, excluding as much air as possible. Keep the temperature of the freezer at 0°F or below.

Several factors affect the shelf life of frozen meats, fish, and poultry. Generally, fatty meats and fish, cured meats, and shellfish will retain their quality for three months in a 0°F freezer. Lean meats, fish, and poultry can usually be kept up to a year without an appreciable quality loss. These storage times do not indicate that the food is becoming unsafe to eat; instead, they are a measure of time when flavors become strong or fade, textures may worsen, colors may change, and nutritional values decline.

If The Freezer Goes Off

If the power fails or a mechanical failure occurs, certain precautions should be taken to assure the safety of frozen foods. If service cannot be restored, or the unit repaired in two days:

Do not open the freezer. Opening the door will hasten thawing of foods.

Cover the freezer with blankets. Pin the blanket away from the air vents since air is needed when the electricity comes on.

If service is not resumed or the unit repaired within two days, use 2 1/2 pounds of dry ice per cubic foot capacity of the freezer to prevent deterioration or spoilage of frozen foods. Using gloves, place dry ice on boards or heavy cardboard ON TOP of the packages and do not open the freezer again unless necessary. This quantity of dry ice should hold the freezer temperature below freezing for two to three days in a freezer with less than half a load and three to four days in a loaded freezer.

Refreezing foods that have thawed: Refreezing will not pose a hazard if the food still contains ice crystals and is not warmer than 40°F. There is a quality loss with thawing and refreezing. This loss is least evident in red meats and most evident in fish and seafood.



What Do I Look For In a Dehydrator?

I've been making some calls, asking my friends what kind of dehydrator's they have and why? The answers have varied depending on use, cost, space etc.

Searching online I found this article from Mother Earth News that covers some of the basics of the machines plus at the end of the article it has a link that will lead you to a book that will give you more information about building a solar dehydrator.

www.motherearthnews.com/Real-food/2003-06-01/Choosing-a-Food-Dehydrator.aspx

One quote in caught my eye regarding the cost of processing food w/a dehydrator. While there were no sources for these facts the author stated that...

"Calculating all the attendant costs, using a mechanical dehydrator costs half as much as canning, and is almost seven times cheaper than freezing. Certainly, it's not as cheap as the sun, but, hey, we can't all live in California!"

I'm Back!

Gosh - it's been a "while" since I've put anything up. I've been in my yard & garden and having soooo much fun. Planting is all done and we've been spending some quality time weeding. Strawberries, cherries & raspberries have come & gone as has the brocolli.

This Tues., July 13 at 6:30 pm is the RS Homemaking meeting. I'll be doing a presentation on dehydrating. I'll be using Debbie Kent's handout and as it is quite lengthy only a few will actually be printed for those who don't have internet and we're asking everyone else to please follow this link for the information.

http://peaceofpreparedness.com/Resource%20Library/Recipies/All%20Dried%20Up...Dehydrating%20Made%20Easy.pdf

I'm so grateful Debbie allow's us to utilize her material. Also I'm putting up the link to her dehydrating video. This is the presentation she did...so if you miss this Tues. you'll know as much as I do!!!!

http://peaceofpreparedness.com/VideoPages/AllDriedUp.html

The video is in two segments, both are worth watching but they are rather large so be aware that they may take a little time to load.

That's it for now. I will try to find some simple charts for drying times for different fruit & vegetables and post those for reference. But...later :)