THE DEGREE OF OUR PREPAREDNESS WILL EQUAL THE EXTENT OF OUR OBEDIENCE, WHICH E OF MIND






























Thursday, July 15, 2010

Kathy James Sanitation Seminar

Many thanks to Kathy James of Richland for the time and energy she spends to present these seminars and for her willingness to share her information and allowing us to post it here!

The Hidden Disaster
A Very Critical and Significantly Overlooked Topic

The leading cause of death in the world is dysentery (uncontrolled diarrhea) from polluted water and unsanitary conditions. An estimated 2.2 million children die every year from the result of poor sanitation conditions.

Human fecal matter contains millions of harmful organisms and can carry at least 50 communicable diseases. When left in the open and untreated, it can cause deadly diseases.

When the sewer system is disrupted, think “downstream” … “Where am I in the line?”

WHAT TO DO…

A composting toilet is the best possible option; a self-contained system that will not be disrupted and will keep functioning normally when power, water and sewer are gone. However… they are usually fairly expensive. If you have the funds to get one, practice using it NOW.

An existing wet flush system can be converted to a dry disposal system (much better than a port-a-potty or bucket with a toilet seat.)

How to make a “Dry Toilet”

• Turn off water at toilet.
• Use water in toilet tank to wash and sanitize the toilet thoroughly.
• Dry both the tank and bowl.
• Plug the hole in the bottom or the toilet bowl with a greased, solid rubber ball, a greased, tight wad of recycled plastic grocery bags, or dirt (if that’s all you have). This will prevent sewer gases, insects and rodents from coming up the drain into your house. (Do not use a Nerf ball.)
• Line the toilet bowl with a heavy-duty plastic bag that is going to remain in the toilet bowl. You may want to tape the top of the bag to the outside of the toilet bowl.
• Add another bag. Preferably a 100% compost-able/biodegradable bag. Available from…

http://emergencyportabletoilets.com/ or…

http://store.chemisan.com/

• Unless using ChemiSan… (more about this amazing bio tech invention below) separate liquid from solid. Use the toilet bowl only for solids. Do not use the toilet bowl for urine. Urinate into a separate container. (Urine is actually an excellent fertilizer when mixed 50/50 with water. Put it on the soil, but not onto areas where root crops are currently growing. And only when sufficient water is available.)
• Keep a bucket filled with sawdust, wood chips, kitty litter, dry dirt, etc. next to the toilet with a soup can and a paint stirring stick, ruler, dowel,or stick. After using the toilet, cover contents with sawdust, etc. Use the stick to press down the “pile” to extend the use of the plastic bag.
• Cover bowl by placing a piece of cardboard between the bowl lip and the seat. Close lid after each use. Place heavy object on lid to keep curious young hands out.
• When bag is full, place it in something sturdy, like a cardboard box, pan or pail to carry it outside. Leave the “liner” bag in the toilet.
• Dig a deep hole (3-4 ft.). Do not drop closed plastic bags into the hole unless it is a biodegradable/ compostable bag.
• Dump contents of bag into the hole and throw the bag on top. (Not necessary when using a biodegradable-compostable bag). Cover with about 2” of dirt (Do not use lime at this point. Lime pickles waste and keeps it from decomposing, even though it masks odors.) The waste needs to come in contact with the earth to assist the decomposing process. If you absolutely can’t bring yourself to dump the contents of the bag out, use a sharpened stick to poke several holes completely thru the bag.
• Between each bag-dump, put a board over hole and anchor with bricks to keep animals out and humans from falling in.
• When hole is filled to within 6 to 8 inches of the top, cover with about 2” of soil. Cover that soil with a layer of newspaper, then about 1” of Lime. Place another layer of newspaper on top of the lime and mound the remaining earth over the top of the hole. (The lime is to discourage dogs from digging up the waste.)
• The earth was design to process animal waste (which includes humans, on this issue). It just needs to be done correctly.

For winter considerations…

• Insulate ground with bags of leaves or straw so you can keep ground from freezing and dig holes.
• Put bags of waste into metal trash cans or open the head of a 55 gal drum. Securely tie or clamp down lid.
• Keep container on north side of house where sun won’t warm it. Once ground thaws, dig hole and follow the directions above.
• Toilet paper – can use phone books, newspapers or cloth when you run out of the real stuff. To conserve on stored toilet paper, save your old sheets, shirts, etc. and cut into squares to make re-usable “toilet paper.” Use a small amount of stored toilet paper for initial. wipe, then finish cleaning up with a damp piece of cloth “toilet paper.” Wash and sanitize for re-use.

ChemiSan and Compostable Bags

ChemiSan is an amazing biotech innovation. It…

• Accelerates the natural deodorization and decomposition of human waste.
• Turns human waste into an environmentally-friendly humus.
• Kills dangerous pathogens in human waste.
• Works great with biodegradable waste bags and waterless toilets.
• No need to separate fecal matter and urine. The urine activates and feeds the good bacterial micro- organisms.

 Available at…

http://emergencyportabletoilets.com/  or…

http://store.chemisan.com/

Another waste management product is called Enzyme 300

http://beprepared.com/product.asp?pn=ZK%20X100

It is a little less expensive and will break down the fecal matter but is not designed to kill the deadly pathogens. It will need to be buried at least 200’ from known water sources such as wells, rivers and lakes.

You may want to down load the free 2nd edition of The Humanure Handbook available at…

http://humanurehandbook.com/downloads/Humanure_Handbook_all.pdf

Protecting Your Home Environment

• Have on hand non-porous rubber balls of different sizes. Think “downstream.”
• Basement floor drains – remove grate and put a solid rubber ball in the pipe. (There are also commercial products available that swell to fit the hole.) This will prevent basement sewer from backing up into your house. Loosen the floor drain cover screws NOW so you know you can get them out when needed in an emergency.
• Basement bathtub – jam a small rubber ball into the drain.
• Basement toilet – pull toilet off the floor and plug hole.
• Plug EVERY basement drain!
• The best solution is to install a “Backwater valve” This is a one way check valve that will automatically stop the sewage from backing up into the house, and works especially well for sudden flooding backups.
• If all else fails, locate the “cleanout” near the house in your yard. Learn how to plug the line. This will stop the sewage from backing up into your house. Again, think of where you are in the line.

PERSONAL HYGIENE

• Personal wipes (shower in a box) for short periods of emergency. Store bought brands aren’t packaged for long-term storage. Vacuum sealing them will lengthen their shelf life. (“Kozy Kids” by Amway store well. Jim Phillips, a preparedness instructor, has used and stored them for years.)
• Waterless hand cleaners/sanitizers. Conserves water use. Read the labels! Don’t use products with isopropyl alcohol which is absorbed by the body and is toxic. You want the active ingredient to be ethyl (grain) alcohol.
• Cornstarch “Shampoo”… You can dust hair with corn starch or talcum powder to stretch intervals between shampoo-ing if there’s a shortage of water. (There are “dry shampoo” products available in Sporting Goods store.)
• Bar soap spreads disease. Do not share your bar of soap! Better to use liquid soap in a pump bottle.
• Wash water – Fill up empty detergent bottles with water and store for future washing.
• Plan on storing 1 gallon of water per person, per day. Half for drinking – half for sanitation
• Washing machine – use a 5-gallon bucket with a lid that has a hole drilled in it for a plunger handle to stick through. Use a “Breathing Mobile Washer” plunger to agitate clothes. Available at…

http://beprepared.com/product.asp?pn=MC%20W050

or the Rapid Washer available at…

http://www.lehmans.com/store/Home_Goods___Laundry___Washing___Rapid_Laundry_Washer___66RW?Args=

• I also have the new “Wonder Washer”, but I don’t recommend it for potentially long-term use. It’s too flimsy. Better to use the “plunger” type washers above.

• You can also make your own “plunger” washer by cutting 3 holes into a regular old plunger. See at…

http://offgridonthecheap.blogspot.com/2010/04/redneck-washing-machine-and-diy-laundry.html

• Feminine hygiene – “Glad rags” reusable, washable sanitary pads. “Keeper Moon Cup” reusable, washable “tampon,” and “Diva Cup.” Google for additional products available. Also… using panty liners on a regular basis will lengthen the time in between washing under ware, if necessary, and washing time.
• Both disposable diapers and cloth diapers.
• Dental care. Toothpaste is not essential. A toothbrush is good to have, but dental floss is the most important.

PERSONAL PROTECTION

• Buy vinyl or latex disposable gloves by the box. Have LOTS on hand.
• Masks…
• N95 – This is the minimum rating on a mask that you want to get – they filter particulates & droplets from others who sneeze or cough. Don’t get unrated comfort dust masks. The most comfortable ones have exhale valve & won’t fog glasses.
• N100 gives better protection. Best to get with exhale valve.
• Painters’ masks and P95 masks have carbon which absorbs odors for those who are sensitive to smells. Exhale valves are a good feature.
• “Triosyn” masks are impregnated with iodine to kill pathogens and provide the best bacteria and virus protection.
• Google “face masks” for more info.

CONTROLLING VERMIN AND PESTS

• Mice and rats spread disease. Have traps and bait. Cats control by killing them.
• A variety of items for insect control, especially flies.
• Fossil Shell Flour (DE -- diatomaceous earth). Use food grade DE – (Perma-Guard brand). Put around cabinets, etc. for insect control. Dust in your garden and mix in with stored grains, seeds & legumes. Cleans out intestinal parasites in animals.

CLEANERS AND SANITIZERS

• Calcium hypochlorite (dry bleach) is better than liquid bleach which has only a 1 year shelf life. Calcium hypochlorite will store for years when kept cool and dry.
• Safety tip: Do not store chlorine and ammonia products close together. Never mix chlorine bleach and ammonia as this will produce very deadly chlorine gas.
• GSE (grapefruit seed extract) or “citricidal”. 15-20 drops in 1 quart of water. You can wash countertops, vegetables, meats, etc. with it. Safe for food contact surfaces. Can even wash food with it.
• Iodine tincture – available at drugstores.
• Some pathogens require a base disinfectant. Some require a acidic disinfectant.
• Hydrogen peroxide (base) Very useful. Store in cool dark place.
• "Steramine" Tablet form of hydrogen peroxide. 1 tablet to one gallon of water. Available at restaurant supply stores.
• White vinegar (acid)
• Ammonia, alcohol (Ethyl NOT Isopropal), baking soda – all simple, not toxic and all very useful.

KEEPING THINGS SANITARY

• Have lots of empty spray bottles.
• Portable wash pails and pans – galvanized or stainless are better than plastic.
• Paper plates, cups, and utensils – disposable for short-term use. Saves water.
• Metal plates, bowls, cups and utensils are best for long-term use.
• Keep plastic grocery sacks. They will come in handy for all kinds of things. Store them compacted in a cardboard box. Tape the box shut and cut a three inch hole in one corner, and just stuff through the hole to store them.
• Coolers for storing food to keep vermin out.
• Large role of clear sheeting plastic and duct tape for sealing up windows and/or rooms, if necessary. Available at Home Depot or Lowes.
• Metal file cabinets/cupboards (definitely optional, but mice can’t get in them).

DISPOSAL OF TRASH AND GARBAGE

• Compost whatever possible.
• Several large trash cans with lids that can be secured.
• Lots of large, heavy-duty garbage bags. Trash compactor bags and contractor bags (available at ACE and other hardware stores) are the thickest.
• It may become necessary to bury garbage in more severe disaster conditions. Bury deep.
• Wash and reuse containers, IF water is available.
• Save paper to burn in winter.
• Disposable Diapers… You want the contents to make contact with the soil to speed decomposition. Remove fecal matter for burying, if possible, before rolling into a ball to discard.

As Always…
Remember…

I + E = K

Information + Experience = Knowledge

The #1 necessity to surviving a major disaster is an “I can do this” attitude.

“If ye are prepared… ye shall not fear.”

(D&C 38:30)

I would be sorely remiss if I didn’t include an Enormously Special THANK YOU to Jim Phillips. Mr. Phillips is a seasoned and highly knowledgeable preparedness instructor, and was kind enough to hold two consecutive classes in one evening (running from 6:30-11 pm) that I attended in Orem. He did that solely for our benefit to help me be more knowledgeable for the sanitation portion of our class. Most of the above notes are the result of his class.

If you have questions on this or other topics you can direct them to Jim Phillips at
CustomerService@SafeHarborAliance.com

To all of those who have been attending our classes… Thank you for your kind expressions of gratitude. Thank you for helping see the need to learn more than I knew. I hope that you have all gained something of value to help you be better prepared, better knowledgeable, and more confident in your ability to taken care of those you love in the event of a “disaster.” I certainly have!

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